Headed south from Göteborg on bike (finally!) and loving the plants. Lots of nettles (I picked some and made a delicious iron-y tea one morning, got some honorary stings), rose-hips, blackberries, "sloe" berries (maybe for making gin, we asked a few locals and can't quite tell). And boy oh boy, I can't believe our luck, we seem to have arrived at both the peak of blueberry (up north, on the Kungsleden trail) and apple seasons (yellow blushers and small red ones with lipstick flecked flesh...gleaned along the winding country roads). Also, pear season, but these are less glean-able and more inside yards (I still have some principles).
Lots of volvos, audis, vws and mercedes, as Ross says "they are wealthy here--those socialists!" The Swedes do seem "preppy" with their fancy cars, perfect complexions, pastel colored sweaters hung around their necks driving fancy cars. And they also seem hardy, we encountered a woman born in 1935 (making her 79!) towards the end of our hike, staying in one of the huts, carrying a large & heavy pack, sweeping the floor, fetching water, generally looking amazing and spry! Along our bike ride, I've seen lots of elderly couples all bundled up walking through blustery days, ladders leaned up against every pear and apple tree (each yard seems to have one) and immaculate lawns (but I have not once seen a "lawn care" person besides the home-owners.
And most amazingly, yesterday, we saw a wheel-chair bound man hauling it up hills (on the cycle route) all the way from Varberg to Falkenberg (see map)--I nearly freaked out when he wheeled up to Falkenberg only an hour behind us....he was so inspiring, I made a promise to not complain, ever, after seeing that sight (that promise lasted until we got to Halmstad when it was cold, dark and a closed hostel & caloric deficit broke my will). In any case, such sights lead to me to think hardy, self-reliant and connected to the land.
Another very interesting thing here is the children--embedded into everything but still a more laid-back approach... From our arrival to the airport in Stockholm with the giant mushroom fairy tale playroom to the signage (all "walk" paths are marked with an adult and child holding hands). Practically EVERY bicycle seems to have a child seat mounted on the back. Winding through country roads, we often will see a young bundled mother with her pram charging along just for the 'walk-of-it'.
There is also a seemingly relaxed culture around watching your kids. At the amusement park (Liseborg, in Göteborg, awesome), there were pairs of siblings (e.g. 5 & 8 yrs old) just scampering around from ride to ride, no parent in sight. A sign posted there said, essentially, "you can get a band for your child and write your phone number on it in the event that you need to find them at the end of the day". Can you imagine that in the US? With our child leashes? I mean, I know some children can be quite active but just such a different mind-frame. The whole country just seems more wholesome and child-oriented (though not in a creepy need to keep them in sight at all times).
Ok, for you foodies: On the trail we were eating lots of dehydrated meals (thanks Martha and Gary!), canned beans, digestive cookies (so good! think Carr's whole wheat party crackers), tubes of cheese, salami, and Wasa (so much Wasa). And of course, blueberries. Once we left the trail, reindeer (or "reindear") dominated, with blueberry/lingon berry sauces, crusty bread and chanterelles (locally foraged, it seemed). Now on the bike route, we are eating bread, cheese, licorice (salty! sweet!) and chocolate covered hazelnuts. We are doing OK :)
Before I forget, I want to write a bit about the hiking trip. Ross's dad, Carl, is amazing and meticulously planned an incredible and exciting trip. I think it was sort of a 65th birthday present to himself (and us!) and a life-time goal of his to return to Scandinavia for this trip. We would hike 5-8 hours a day through blushing blueberry pastures (it's fall here!) rolling hills, bogs and birch forests ogling velveteen-horned reindeer, birds, colorful mushrooms, receding glaciers and some of the most immense and pristine nature I have ever seen. I think only 1 plane flew overhead in 6 days (it might have been a rescue helicopter).
The days were long, but the hiking itself was pretty mild, and each day ended at a hut (Stuga) with a warm and unique Vard who would instruct us where to chop wood, collect mushrooms, fetch water (for both bathing and drinking), deposit the slask (dishwater) and finally lay our tired bodies in bunk beds. Some had wood-fired saunas with cool bodies of water nearby and we could do some hot-cold dunking that was super invigorating. Did I mention you can drink the water RIGHT OUT OF THE STREAMS? No filter needed. We had a completely wonderful time and it was a great send-off!
some photos:
Madame Blueberry in her natural habitat
Team rainbow Osprey (times five) + Kelty Karl
Ok, we are off to eat breakfast and hit the bike, trying to reach Angelholm or beyond and then take the Ferry to Denmark tomorrow. We are flying home to NYC for Ross's poppop's (Betsy's father) funeral Saturday. Super cheap tickets on BerlinAir people---come on and join us in Germany!
Love, madame B and ross.
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