So Berlin. From the moment I arrived, I thought, I like this place. It was gritty, full of life, movement, struggle, tolerance and "diverse" people (Germany, and Berlin in particular have huge immigrant and refugee populations). There also is of course all the post-war shame, heaviness, recovery and re-interpretation of the fascinating remnants – the Berlin wall (now covered in art), Hitler's bunker (now an unremarkable parking lot), the deserted Nazi airport and 5-story deep old war bunkers (now scoped out for underground party hangouts), etc) as well as a bursting-at-the-seams hipster/artist/funk/alternative vibe. Such a powerful combination.
We stayed in a sweet tiny hostel in the Kreuzburg neighborhood for three nights. This area is totally hip; previously undesirable due to its proximity to wall (basically surrounded by East Berlin on several sides) and populated by immigrants, now joined by artsy types as the next stop out from the slowly gentrifying Mitte/center. It's super cheap and full of cafes, restaurants and the Turkish Market bazaar (which we of course explored and scored goatskin dancing moccasins, roasted corn on the cob, fresh dates, coconuts and some other scrumptious picnic treats to eat on the banks of the canal with cousin Johanna). We managed to really energetically re-group in Berlin, taking an extra rest day, soaking up some actual honeymoon-esque times, visiting with my family, lazing around, sleeping in, getting massages, doing yoga and going out for cheap meals. This is possibly an infomercial for Berlin (I felt an overwhelming and recurrent desire to by an apartment while we were there...it was the most home-like place I have felt since leaving Somerville.)
Ross was worried that we wouldn't have anything to do in Berlin since it was a weeknight (Tuesday) Ha! We raced around from dinner to a blues dancing lesson to an electronic music concert at Berghain, the "mecca" of all electronic dance clubs in a former power plant. I had to stand in for Nate as concert-buddy. It was a lovely show--full of smoke machines pumping purple plumes, mellow Canadians singing songs about everlasting love and the sun--I can handle this type of electronic music. And then, I went to bed and Ross, Ross, went out to 2 other events (back to blues dancing, to a huckleberry finn dance party and then ...?)
And!! Ross turned 32!!! We went on a birthday journey to the Jewish Museum and out to dinner at a wonderful mediterranean tapas place. I can't say the Jewish museum was the most birthday-like activity we could've mustered but the timing was right and we both really wanted to go. We spent 4 hours there and while we left feeling maxxed out, we also felt we could've spent another 6 hours there (it covered Jewish people and traditions from pretty much the dawn of time to present day....everything from religious persecution and the plague in middle times through the holocaust to mikvehs to circumcision).
As an aside, I, in particular, am feeling more and more Jewish these days, more curious about my Jewish roots, interested in what it means to raise a family with some distinct Jewish flavors/rituals and am excited to do some more formal Jewish study once we get back to Philly. (Thanks Myla, the Rebecc/ka(h)s (Ennen and Rosenfeld), Talya and Rabbi Lauren for all the sisterly encouragement/support in this endeavor).
a robot writing a torah scroll (at human pace)
As I mentioned, we also finally had a return to our "mats"(you know, hostel floors with blankets, carpets, random hallways, we don't actually have yoga mats). I realized that a one-month yoga hiatus, at this point, is about all my little being can handle without collapsing. It just weaves all my loose ends back together, helps me integrate everything I am learning into my life and brain and heart in a sustainable way and also helps me sleep, digest food, be married, breathe air and feel joy. Yoga, you are powerful and it is good to be back with you (even if it's only 1-2 times per week and in some pretty un-sacred spaces.)
Overall our bikes and bodies are still going strong, no more gear issues per se but after ~2 actual flats and 3 wheel removals later we are feeling like more confident bike mechanics. Also our super fancy tension tent (that is HARD to set up, even Ross agrees) is becoming more decipherable and taut and thus less wet. Hence we are feeling braver about camping many nights in a row which is fun and more off-the-grid.
In general feels like we are getting this trip down to more of a science and also into some grooves---feeling more like travelers and less like tourists. We are also settling into roles. Ross is an amazing navigator and planner (clearly), possibly has a photographic memory for maps (Carl much?) and I apparently am skilled at assembling a snack pack and talking to people, getting them to invite us into their homes and show us their secrets (more on this later).
More to come from Ross soon on Berlin and Prague!
Love and figs,
Madame B (though bb season is sadly over)
some sights (mostly from our info-packed free walking tour)
Propoganda soviet-era mural on the side of a Nazi building in Berlin (one of the last ones, now houses the German equivalent IRS), depicts the perfect balance and joy of a communist society. This was also in the square where there was a bloody massacre of workers who tried to advocate for their rights under communism and were squashed with tanks from Moscow. The irony!
scare quotes from James (our tour guide) outside the Reichstag
the most expensive hotel in Berlin (Michael Jackson could only afford the second floor from the top), which survived WWII but not the party that the Russians threw in the basement afterward
Berlin cathedral, only about 100 years old
the palace is being reconstructed yet again
Images from the East-Side Gallery, a remaining section of the Berlin Wall filled with art (original) from when it stood, plus newer graffiti.
Drawn out but delicious dinner at Le Bon --part 2 of Ross's bday celebration (usually we eat camp-style cooked noodles or boring un-toasted bread and cheese--we swear!). This place was a little gastro-y but pretty cheap, thickly romantic and full of locals which made us feel cool.
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